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Victor Vector

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About Victor Vector

Star Citizen Info

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    Freelancer
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    Freelancer
  1. @Nord Thanks for that. I already have an account with Imggur now, but I'll make a note of Photoland.io in case things don't work out.
  2. Ok, after a bit more shuffling around on Imgur I found this which seems to clear up any misunderstanding I think. "Are you unable to see your images on a forum? We allow hotlinking on forums, but hotlinked images cannot be used as content for a website, including blog posts, avatars, site elements, and advertising. You can read our terms of service for more info. If you believe your site has been mistakenly blocked, please contact us for assistance." The statement snippet in my previous post regarding Imgur's T.O.S. may be a bit ambiguous/confusing to some, myself included, but the above appears to clear up any doubt on the issue. Imgur, does indeed allow direct or hotlinking to forums etc. Good enough for me. Imgur account soon to be set up.
  3. I have now retrieved all my images from Photobucket and deleted my account. Took forever mainly because of their damned irritating captcha routine every time you need to download something. Anyway good riddance to them. I was looking at Imgur and reviews were good with this one: https://www.thebalance.com/top-free-image-hosting-websites-1357014 stating that direct linking is allowed. This is a snippet from their review: "Direct linking is allowed and you're also given links for embedding the image in HTML or adding it to message boards and forums." Great, but then in Imgur's T.O.S. I noticed this paragraph which is rather worrying: "Stuff not to do Also, don't use Imgur to host image libraries you link to from elsewhere, content for your website, advertising, avatars, or anything else that turns us into your content delivery network. If you do – and we will be the judge – or if you do anything illegal, in addition to any other legal rights we may have, we will ban you along with the site you're hotlinking from, delete all your images, report you to the authorities if necessary, and prevent you from viewing any images hosted on Imgur.com. We mean it." Now I may be reading all this wrong - so many terms - direct linking, hot linking, 3rd party hosting, - all seem to mean basically the same thing as far as my limited knowledge goes, so which is it? Are we allowed to use imgur to display images on other websites or not. Seems very confusing with conflicting reports depending on where you look.
  4. Well it seems the consensus favours Imgur so far. Anyway I've almost finished getting all my stuff back from PhotoF*cket, so I'll be giving Imgur a try too. @Xlile Probably the boss of PhotoF*cket wanting a new few dozen Ferrari's or some such to grace the driveway of his new Mansion in the Bahamas.
  5. It appears recently that Photof*cket now wants $400 a year to allow us to post images on forums or anywhere else for that matter. https://www.theregister.co.uk/2017/06/30/photobucket_charging_400yr_3rdparty_pgs/ I think they know what they can do with that idea. That said any photo's I've previously posted may no longer work either by Photof*cket's interference or ultimately by me removing all photo's from their site and finding an alternative host. If anyone else is using Photobucket, beware. In the meantime, any suggestions for a good, simple easy to use FREE photo hosting site that allows posting your photo's on forums etc, gratefully received.
  6. @Squirrel You're welcome. Hope it helps.
  7. If you are using a "push to talk" button on your keyboard, you can instruct voice attack to stop listening automatically whilst the key is pressed and then resume listening once the key is released. Go into Voice attack Options (the spanner icon) and click the "Hotkeys" tab. Select the box on the right hand side next to "Recognition Global Hotkey." In the Global Hotkey window, enter your chosen push to talk key and choose the "Voice attack stops listening while key is pressed" radio button. That's it. Now VA will stop listening for commands while the PTT key is pressed and resume listening once it it released. I haven't tried yet, but depending on your controller software it should be possible to map your chosen PTT key to a joystick button. Hope I understood your intentions correctly.
  8. That's because it was made in High Fidelity. I wonder if he'll be changing the name to "Fidelity Citizen"
  9. Yes, I've got myself a couple of reasonably big and effective knives now, er, I mean swords, and that Griffin armour you mentioned. Even Horsey McHorseFace has got a new fancy saddle, saddle bags and some tin bling on his nose. As for the "saucy prostitutes", I actually haven't tried that particular side quest. Still, I suppose it has a couple of advantages over the real thing, i.e. it's cheaper and a lot safer, haha. Move along now, nothing to see here......... And now back to Spectrum: Yes indeed Amedeus hit the nail on the head with a very large hammer. You can't force people to use something they don't want simply by denying access to what they're already used to. They'll just move elsewhere as we have done. CIG should realize that they're doing themselves and the game more harm than good by this attempted heavy handed forced move to a clunky, ugly and messy system.
  10. Ooh! Has this turned into the official Spectrum bashing thread? @RogueRaptor Overlays! Oh man, one of my pet hates too. That's true Grizz. I think CIG have invented a new game called "Ostriches." The winner is the first one to guess how short a time it takes for the CR Ostrich to bury its head in the sand on that desert planet (the one with that sand worm) and hope all the spectrum negativity will go away or pretend that it didn't actually happen in the first place. Oh yeah and as for games, I'm now playing Witcher 3 to occupy myself at least until v3.0 drops.
  11. Yes you're quite right. I forgot to mention that with SC. Sorry. I also have the roll axis disabled too. I found that can give some odd results too. I only did a quick test with the system though.
  12. @Skywing You're welcome. Glad you got your tracker working with Open Track. It might take a little bit of work to get super smooth but it can be done. I think the helmet bug affects just about everyone at the moment. That's an issue for CIG to fix I think. I watched the Tobii video in Gerald Evans' post above and there is no helmet bug there. However, tobii works differently to track IR but I'm not familiar with that device so I can't comment further. It will be good to see how Tobii is implemented in Star Citizen though. Good luck, Fly safe.
  13. @Skywing As far as Freetrack is concerned you are right. It does not work in Star Citizen. However, if you use Open Track with your tracking device, all you need to do is start Open track, then launch Star Citizen and fly. It will work without having to set up anything in the Star Citizen controls at all. The link to download Open Track is in my other post above. Hope that helps.
  14. My Mk2 Track Hat. Stuff needed: 1: Originally I used Freetrack Software. Note: This is no longer supported and does not work natively with Star Citizen. However the Open track software works just fine. Download the latest version here: https://github.com/opentrack/opentrack/releases 2: MS vx1000 webcam, or any webcam with an easily removed IR fliter. Check Freetrack website for compatible cameras. There will be better hardware available since I originally wrote this. Wii controllers for example, or simply better cameras. 3: Old floppy disk from obsolete junk bin. C'mon, everyone has one - an obsolete junk bin that is . 4: Baseball cap. Y'know, that old ragged in one at the bottom of the wardrobe that you never quite got around to throwing out and the wife/gf didn't find on her old clothes sweep ("You're not still wearing that old thing are you?") . 5: IRE's (Infra Red Emitters) They are not LED's. Well, semantics maybe, but they MUST be OSRAM SFH485P or equivalent for best results. They are available at http://www.digikey.com. However, that option was no good for me as the postage rate far outstripped the component value. Here in the UK I got mine from http://uk.farnell.com/ Actually I phoned to confirm they had them as they had two conflicting web pages on the subject. One said they had them and the other said they were discontinued. I'm glad I phoned. The very nice lady who answered kindly sent me a sample package free of charge containing 10 of the things. Can't say fairer than that. 6: Power supply. There are two ways to go here - Battery or mains power adapter. I didn't want the weight and inconvenience of a battery attached to the hat or elsewhere for that matter, so I went the Adapter route with a 300 Milliamp power adapter. My adapter is switchable between 0, 3, 4.5, 6, 7.5, 9 and 12volts. Get a decent one. Some of these things have very bad reviews. The one I have seems to be of a good quality but was still only £7. Note: Test the output on these adapters with a multimeter. Some of them like mine are not too accurate. I first set mine to the required 4.5 volts and the actual output was way over that so I tried the 3.0 volt setting which came out at just under 4.5v. which is fine. Each emitter is 1.5volts which is where the total 4.5 volts comes from. The best thing about using an adapter is that firstly, you don't have to worry about a battery pack, and secondly you don't have to use resistors making construction a lot simpler. 7: Wire. My first thought was some wire from an old PSU but I didn't want dirty great thick wire like that in my hat. First it would be uncomfortable, second, it would be hard to solder to a delicate IR emitter leg and third, it would look bloody awful. I found an old IDE ribbon cable in my box of junk. Ideal, it's nice and thin and there's plenty strands to be stripped apart. 8: Soldering iron etc. Here's how it went: I already had the latest Freetrack software (now using Opentrack) installed and I managed to locate an old Microsoft VX1000 webcam in my "bits and pieces" box. The cameras IR filter needs to be removed otherwise the device won't work. There is one small screw holding the camera casing together. I removed that and prised the casing apart quite easily. The lens unscrews from the body and there is a small IR filter placed at the back. This can be gently prised out with a small screwdriver. Obviously I can't comment on other cameras and this is just for the VX1000. So, modify your cameras at your own risk. This done, I found an old floppy disk and destroyed/dismantled it. I stuck a piece of the floppy disk material on the inside of the front part of the casing to block out ambient light. That's the webcam sorted. I replaced the lens and reassembled the camera. That's the webcam sorted. Now to build the hat. Wearing a hat in the house is bad enough, so I didn't want to use wire coat hangers, plastic tubing or any other Heath Robinson contraptions for the three point model making me look like the Borg. I may act like a bit of an idiot sometimes, but I decided to mount the IRE's directly to the hat in an attempt to avoid actually looking like one. The above statement is purely my opinion and matters not one jot. How you elect to build your device is entirely your prerogative. For the actual construction and wiring, simply link all the positive emitter legs together, do the same for the negative and then connect to the pos and neg terminals on the jack socket. Done.there are plenty of you tube videos to help on that and you can still obtain the Freetrack manual from the website. http://www.free-track.net/english/ Now the first one I made sort of worked, erratically. This was the Mk1, in case you were wondering. I made the cardinal error of rushing the construction in my enthusiasm. It is very important to get the dimensions of the model right and enter those dimensions into the freetrack/Opentrack software's model tab. The crucial thing is that the vertical height from the two front IRE's must not be greater than the horizontal dimension from the two front IRE's to the raised third one. If this is not right you will get some interesting results. So take your time and get the measurements spot on. It will pay dividends later. I decide to do the MkII hat more accurately and use a measuring device. With the IRE's repositioned and hooked up to a 3.5mm jack socket at the back of the hat, it's time to to test it. The emitters don't fry themselves (neither does yours truly) and it all seems to work just fine. Once everything was tested and working I secured the IRE's in place with a spot of hot glue. Here are the model dimensions that worked for me: Here's the measuring device. Well, what did you expect? A laser measure? Here's the source of the wire I used. Here's the power supply. Here's the Hat MkII Not too bad and works great. Final Note: Remember that because my power supply happens to switch to 4.5 volts (the same combined voltage of the three IRE's), I didn't need any resistors. However, if you use a more common 6v power supply together with the three OSRAM SFH485P emitters wired in series, you will need to wire in a single 15 ohm resistor between the power supply on the positive side and the first IR Emitter. This will knock the voltage down to 4.5. After some adjustments in the freetrack software itself it works beautifully. Easily as good as Track IR4. I can't comment on TIR 5 (£150) as I haven't used it but I can't see it being much better if at all. There you have it. 6Dof from some junk, a cheap webcam and a switchable power supply. Total cost if I recall correctly was somewhere around £12. Victor's track hat works beautifully. Victor has saved himself around £140 (probably more by now). Victor is pleased.