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  1. Build help New Build Advice

    Do another check in BIOS and monitoring software to see if everything's set up correctly, like PCI-E 3.0 x4 speed for M2_1 slot and an alternative benchmark like CrystalDiskMark. Magician's pretty meh. Try M2_2 port too to check if MOBO is defective too. If everything fails, just RMA I guess.
  2. Build help New Build Advice

    @Gallitin Looking at Strix Z370-E manual, it shows 2x M2 slots marked under number 8. and it seems they do share bandwidth with SATA ports. Maybe try another M2 slot
  3. Build help New Build Advice

    My suggestions would be to run the PC on stock settings, removing CPU OC, and re-test the 960 EVO. Unstable OCs make PCs do weird stuff. Check M2 SSD temp. on HWinfo64, might be throttling if it's overheating but I doubt it. Reinstall everything and re-test. If all else fails just RMA the drive.
  4. Ongoing Discussion Lets see your Rigs!

    Case upgrade, Dark Base 700 is a nice, roomy midtower with good airflow when front panel and excess stuff like unused PCI-E covers and I/O shield removed: , Here is GPU temp. and fan speeds while CPU + GPU mining and general use at the same time: CPU and RAM are overclocked while GPU is undervolted and overclocked for mining. Temps are a couple of degrees higher while gaming at same fan speeds with a less conservative voltage and increased power limit.
  5. Build help New Build Advice

    https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LBgY6X Ryzen list with Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT with added optional duct as CPU cooler (duct pictured below) 3x Be Quiet! Silent Wings 1600 RPM PWM fans as front intakes (2 of these included with the case) 3x Thermalright TY-147B fans as bottom intake, back exhaust and on CPU cooler. (1 of these is included with CPU cooler) 3-way fan splitter can safely be used on Taichi when connected to one of the two 1.5A/18W fan headers. CPU cooler requires AM4 bracket for installation, seller on Amazon provides these for free when he's sent a message about it.
  6. Build help New Build Advice

    CPU: Skip i9s if you don't require them for productivity reasons, not worth it for gaming. 8700k should be fine or alternatively you can wait for Ryzen+ 7 series. It'll have better upgrade options for the future and it's soldered so no need to delid to get 20C lower. Cooler you picked is a really bad CLC. If you're after easy-to-install liquid cooling, get a proper AIO like Swiftech HX-240(or similiar Swiftech units) or Bequiet Silent Loop 280. Something refillable and cleanable so it won't degrade in performance by liquid evaporation or break down after a couple of years. Motherboard: GB Gaming 7 has nice VRMs. Check this thread for Z370 motherboard picks, all the info you'll need when picking up a motherboard pretty much. Intel NICs are better compared to Killer ones for connectivity. For Audio, Realtek ALC1220 is the best, older onboard audio chips are significantly inferior compared to this. Case: Case size doesn't have much to do with cooling, it all depends on case airflow. Pick a case with mesh or dust filter only in front(or a removable front panel). Cases with restricted intakes have bad airflow. If you don't have a lot of 2.5"/3.5" drives, mid towers should do. My suggestion would be Be Quiet Dark Base 700 with front panel removed. It comes with 2x highest quality 1600 RPM 140mm PWM Be Quiet fans and adding 1 more in front and 1 more on top of PSU shroud as bottom intake should keep your GPU cool. Do not use 140mm Noctua fans in pull setups(like front intake). Their propeller are slightly offset so they'll start creating an annoying whine at slightly higher speeds compared to other high quality fans. This guide has everything you need on how to optimize your case airflow. It also has case, mobo and air cooler clearence numbers if you decide to go that way. Some wide tower coolers (like Noctua D15) just invade first PCI-E slot or won't let case side panel close so do check those if you're going that way. 3x 140mm square intake fans in front will provide best cooling with front to back airflow. Exhaust fans aren't necessary if you have good static pressure fans as intakes. Square fans are better for front since they'll stop cool air from escaping by totally covering the front intakes. Rads are best placed on top or bottom as exhausts or alternatively, small 120-140mm rad is alright in the back as exhaust so build accordingly. Try not to have rads contaminating GPU intake fans with hot air. Also transforming back exhaust to an intake with an added magnetic dust filter for top installed rads are a good, small modification to do. Bottom intake directly hitting GPU does help with GPU temps significantly and so does removing airflow restricting components like unused back PCI-E covers. Top intakes are just bad unless you have an inverse ATX build. GPU brand for 1080ti doesn't matter much as long as it has a decent heatsink, they more or less overclock the same. Pick one from a company that provides good warranty in your region. Also do choose a AIB partner card (open air cooler design). All the thin fans on AIB partner GPUs are notoriously bad, it's just better to replace them with 120x120x25 mm case fans by removing GPU fan shroud. I like Nidoc Servo Gentle Typhoon 120mm fans' sound profile best but I'm not well-versed in 120mm fans. RAM: pick a Samsung B-die kit if you're going 3200 or higher frequency. They're the best overclocker DIMMs. Anything 3000C14, 3200C14, 3600C15-16-17 or higher rated with timings like 14-14-14-34 or 15-15-15-36. Other kits with timings like 15-17-17-36 are Hynix ICs and they're significantly inferior especially if you plan on doing overclocking or tightening your timings. Go SR(Single rank) 2 DPC(2 DIMM per channel) for Ryzen builds for highest compatibility. Go DR(dual rank) 1 DPC for Intel builds so your RAM will lose less value overtime. G.Skill B-die are the best binned, other brands generally use bottom of the barrel B-die DIMMs. Go SATA or M2 for storage. PCI-E drives impede GPU airflow. PSU: 1K is way overkill for a single-gpu setup. 550W is enough for fully overclocking single GPU PCs(CPU/RAM/GPU overclocks) with mainstream processors. Get a 650W unit if you wanna go overkill. EVGA G2/P2, Corsair RMX, Seasonic Prime Titanium, Focus Gold series will do the job. Sound cards aren't necessary with a decent onboard audio chip like Realtek ALC1220. If you're super audiophile, get a high quality USB DAC. Internal soundcards impede airflow and have notoriously bad driver support. They cause a ton of issues.
  7. My new Star Citizen gaming PC is here!

    Well, I expected the case to support 280mm rads on top, it seems it doesn't, only supports up to 240mm. Having rad in front isn't ideal for cooling since warm air coming off the rad will feed into GPU fans. I did remember cheaper and decent Phanteks 140mm fan's model number, It's PH-140MP in case you're interested (should also have a black/white version). Still, do remove those unused back PCI-E covers, it should help exhausting heated GPU air out of the case.
  8. My new Star Citizen gaming PC is here!

    Go for a X370 board with better VRMs imo, something like Strix-F X370 or X370 Taichi. They tend to get discounts pretty frequently.
  9. Build help New GPU

    Grab a 1070Ti
  10. Ongoing Discussion AMD abandons GPU efforts in 2018?

    Ryzen was a total hit this year. AMD CPUs and GPUs have been selling like hotcakes and they pretty much have 50% market share according to biggest retail stores like Amazon/Newegg/Mindfactory. They suck at server market tho and it's where the biggest bucks are. They're prolly skipping 12mm Vega and going straight to 7, no need to panic Vega is a nice architecture like Ryzen and should keep its own in the future but yea, AMD is not gonna be taking lead in gaming GPU market this year.
  11. My new Star Citizen gaming PC is here!

    My 2 cents: Put the rad on top, set it up as exhaust Put 2 more decent static pressure, 140mm intake fans infront (I'd suggest Thermalright TY-147A or B or BeQuiet Silent Wings 1600 RPM ones. There are also decent Phanteks ones but I don't remember the model number off the top of my head right now. Don't buy 140mm Noctuas as intakes, their propellers make whining noise when they're mounted as pull/intake since they're slightly offset from middle) Redo the the back exhaust fan as intake and add a magnetic filter Remove unused back PCI-E covers Temps should go down considerably Happy gaming
  12. Since 3.0 I'm unable to zoom

    I can only zoom in using F too. I guess they either removed it or it's bugged.
  13. Ongoing Discussion Lets see your Rigs!

    Ryzen R5 1600X@4.0 GHz Asrock X370 Taichi G.Skill TridentZ 16GB 3466C14 with tightened timings Gigabyte Vega 64 OC, shroud removed and 2x Nidoc Servo Gentle Typhoon PWM 2150RPM fans attached Noctua D15 with 2x Thermalright TY-147B fans (also 2 of these as case intakes) Corsair 400C Case with front panel and unused PCI-E covers removed Assortment of SSDs (840 EVO, 850 EVO and BX100) Assortment of HDDs (Seagate, WD) EVGA 1000 G1 PSU Asus MG278Q 27" 1440p 144Hz Freesync Asus VG248QE 24" 1080p 144Hz Ikbc Poker II 60% keyboard (MX Blacks) Logitech G102 Prodigy mouse with SS I-2 glass mousepad Thrustmaster T16000M VKB Gladiator Mk.I It's ugly, cool&quiet and it has no RGB lights on at any given time.
  14. My 2cents: I'm running R5 1600X@4.0 with my my 2x8GB SR B-die DIMMs overclocked to 3466C14 with tightened secondary timings. Also have a 850 EVO SSD and GTX970. From what I see, game has really nice graphics especially because of high texture resolution and is also super unoptimized right now and no amount of hardware thrown at it can solve the issue. Best case scenario, I got 35-45 fps in a fresh server(maybe an hour into it) @ 2K resolution with GTX970 lowQ settings and even then, GPU usage wasn't hitting max. Yesterday, during Game Day, we killed a pirate Caterpillar and everyone on the server started having -10 fps because of all the boxes that came out of it and highest fps level was consistent for all players involved. I honestly never heard someone getting 10 to 20 more fps compared to everyone in the server at any given time during gameday or in the forums/reddit wherever... I should also note that 2K lowQ settings looked miles better compared to 1080p highestQ settings on my system. So for anyone buying new hardware for SC, I'd suggest going for monitors with higher resolutions and pixel density like 2K instead of lower pixel density ultrawide 1080p stuff since it'll just look better. Ultrawides also tend to have optimization issues in games since they're the outlier. Best optimization would probably be for 1080p but I expect 1440p monitors to get up there in next few years since they've started getting huge discounts during Black Friday etc. so their market share should start rising. CPU overhead have been historically higher for high player count games and SC will be no different. There's also the fact that CPU overhead is higher for 1080p so having a higher resolution monitor should help you get superior visual quality at no cost, moving the bottleneck more to the GPU-side. Throwing GPU power at the game doesn't look like it'll be increasing FPS so stick with a decent single GPU(preferably 8 GB of VRAM or higher) and buy some new gen 6 or better yet 8 core hyperthreaded main stream CPU (game does saturate my 6 physical cores), 16 GB of RAM and a decent enough SSD. By mainstream I mean i7s, R5s(high core count ones and preferably overclocked) and R7s. i9 cache arhitecture and prices doesn't really make them attractive for gaming at all at the moment, this also goes for Threadripper CPUs. Devs have also stated they'll be optimizing for higher core count CPUs and there's the fact that low core count CPUs are no way running this game efficiently because of huge number of assets. I don't expect the game to be hitting 16 GB+ RAM usage after all the optimization is said and done since it'll just slow the game down to a crawl like it is now, making even the best hardware unable to run it properly. Memory usage should decrease with time and optimization netting better performance for everyone. I don't expect massive improvements in GPU performance for gaming this year. Vega has subpar gaming performance and miners are gonna be grabbing all those so gamers are stuck with overpriced 2-3 year old Nvidia GPUs. Nvidia will just make the small upgrades in its lineup as always. I expect 2070 to perform around 1080ti levels with possibly lower power consumption and 2080 to be around %15-25 faster at most. 2080Ti might just add another %20-30 on top of 2080 a year after release. 2060Ti should hit 1070 levels. Don't buy AMD FX CPUs or low core count, no hyper threading AMD or Intel last gen CPUs for SC pretty much. Note that single player and low player count multiplayer games will have lower CPU overhead, Nvidia display drivers scale better with CPU frequency, 1080p resolution does move the bottleneck into the CPU and Ryzen platform is really sensitive to memory bandwidth and latency so please read benchmarks accordingly.

    It's a mini troop carrier alright. Heavy armored infantry are as close as you can get to deployable turrets about now but I expect Titan Armored infantry to top that. Those would probably fit in a Cutlass and have the role of deployable turrets since I doubt they'll be moving fast enough to assault anywhere or anything considering you can get winded pretty quickly in Heavy Armor. Freelancer can carry more cargo so it's superior to Cutlass when used as a freighter. Freelancer MAX can almost carry triple the amount Cutlass holds so I expect to see that ship around. Hull series carry just way too much so I expect those ships to have escorts, starting with Hull-B which carry more than 3 Freelancer MAX combined. Hull-A can carry more than a Cutlass also but with all Hull series ships, they're defenseless and they might just not be landing anywhere that matters(eg. drug lab) and they might only run cargo inbetween stations or ships I'm guessing. These out of the way bunkers that produce super valuable, limited amount of cargo will be a good bet for ships with limited amount of cargo space like Cutlass. It's nice that something like an Aurora or Avenger can turn a higher profit when filled with super valuable, high profit margin cargo compared to a Constellation that's filled with Waste. Black over Blue is a role thing, Black is more versatile and has more cargo space. If Cutlass insides don't end up modular, you can probably hit Blue fighting power with component, armor and engine upgrades on Black with more cargo space but you can't hit Black cargo capacity when you have a Blue. If they do, sure do pick up a Blue over a Black I guess if you have the budget.